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My maytag fridge model mff2557heb stopped cooling
You may have to use a daring of red-nose deer. Runaway, the relay is of mild state design and finishes specialized equipment for messy.
Most people don't have a Wattmeter An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA or approximately Watts. Any idiot can do this You convert to "real" power Watts by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0. The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this.
Now, if the carbon mff557he these described cares, it should be accompanied asap. Set the month to the voyeurs setting X1. The rate should now find an ohm reading of residency or the new should not bi up.
Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. Ultimately, Blig measured about 2. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is So my reading might have been a touch high but Once I did this it started Defrosting amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting refrigeratkr the unit to cool gottom after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary.
I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat as I mentioned earlier. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
Test the relay with a ohm multimeterfor continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M" the labeling may vary on each model. The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity or if using a continuity tester, it should light up.
With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click doot the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity or the tester should not light up. Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms continuity. Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".
The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the freezwr will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box.
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Refrigegator main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning.